Losinj, Susak, Ilovik - April 2024 (EN)

 

Preparations

It was not my first multi-day trip, so I have some routine in packing. I don't find it a big task to pack my usual things - It usually takes 1-2 hours in the evening before I leave. I prepare in my head a couple of days before departure - I check the wind forecasts - so part of the preparation is keeping a list of things to do and equipment to bring before leaving - when something comes to mind, I type it into my phone. Before I leave, all I have to do is check the list to make sure everything is ticked off.

Based on the expected weather - although the water was still cold (14-15 degrees) - I chose neoprene. I considered the dry suit too warm in the daytime temperatures of over 20 degrees in sunshine. I considered the neoprene to be enough to get back into my kayak if I capsize, but probably not enough to float in the water for hours in case I lost my kayak (e.g., while crossing).

Susak - Day 1

On the first day, I started from a deserted bay in Losingj which was accessible by car. The goal was to cross to Susak Island, which was 8 km from the starting point. I had previously paddled 4-5 km crossings, so I was looking forward to the trip with some excitement. The weather was perfect, almost too perfect. The wind was blowing at 1 (bft) and the sea was barely moving under me. The adrenaline rush I'd experienced on previous crossings was completely gone, I didn't feel uncomfortable at all being kilometers away from the shore.

Arriving on the island, I ended up on a sandy beach of the village. The overall picture that welcomed me was impressive: small colourful houses with narrow streets, a huge sandy beach, a few people resting on it, workers doing the off-season maintenance in the harbour. I put on my shoes and explored the narrow streets of the hilltop village, then spent a quiet hour on the beach and in the local harbour's bar, where locals were passing the time. I'll definitely return to this island, it was absolutely magical. Before heading back, I paddled around the island, I had still plenty of time in my day. The other side of the island didn't impress me as much, it was the usual rocky Adriatic island scene. The way back was as calm as my morning crossing - with one small difference. At the halfway, I almost collided with a turtle swimming close to the surface.

I had never seen a turtle on the Adriatic before. I was the more surprised of two of us. She didn't get very excited at the sight of my kayak. I tried to stay close to her, stirring the water with my paddle with one hand and adjusting my phone with the other to capture the encounter, but unfortunately I didn't manage to get a very good shot. Once I got back to Losinj, I still had time and energy to practice a few rolls in the bay in the 14-15 degree water before getting ready for the evening. The neoprene I was wearing was enough, but my scalp stung a little by the cold water. 😬

Losinj, Ilovik - Day 2-3

Next morning I drove over to Mali Losinj openable bridge, from where I started my 2-day round trip. The boarding point allowed for both a westbound and eastbound start. Although the forecast for the first day was a westerly wind of 2 to 3, which would have given to start on the sheltered eastern side, I chose the western side at the last minute. On the one hand, I didn't think the wind strength would be a problem, and on the other hand, I had planned to do 30 of the 40 km trip on the first day if my pace good enough, leaving only 10 km for the last day. Plus, I had a targeted island to check 30 km away on the east side of Losinj. And after the serenity of the Susak crossing, I was probably a little eager to feel the waves of the sea. Coming out of the sheltered harbour of Mali Losinj on the west side, I found what I expected, moderate winds with moderate waves. It wasn't a serious challenge, I was able to enjoy the pleasure of paddling. Although both the wind and the waves strengthened when I reached Ilovik, I was thoroughly enjoying my trip. My first stop was on the sandy southern beach of Ilovik, where I rewarded myself with an instant noodle soup.

I had a version in my head that I would spend the night here, but as I expected, the weather was allowing a good pace and I had plenty of reserves, so I continued my route. Rounding the island, I headed for the village of Ilovik. On the northern part of Ilovik I encountered strong headwinds that were taking a lot out of my reserves. Through 2 km I paddled leaning on the deck of my kayak to reduce my resistance. 😊 I had another mini experience, even though the forecasted wind strength was only 3 with 4 gusts in the afternoon, the wind blowing from the NW and had intensified considerably in the channel between the two islands. When I reached Ilovik, the wind seemed to have been cut off. The pleasant moderate wind and water movement remained and from there I paddled at a calm pace to my planned overnight campsite. By sunrise the next morning I was already packed and after a quick breakfast I headed back to my car 10 km away. On the way back, I paddled into the small port of Vali Losinj. I've been there as a hiker in peak season. This time my visit from the water, out of season, was an incomparably greater experience.

What to eat

On my paddling trips I usually avoid eating too much during the day, paying more attention to breakfast and dinner. For breakfast, eggs, liver paste, vegetables, biscuits and coffee is the tried and tested combination. During the day, mostly nuts, dried fruits, maybe a protein or energy bar, but I'm not a big fan of the latter. My dinners are typically along the rice-pasta-tuna line. I choose foods that don't require refrigeration and will keep for a long time. I keep several days' supply of the food I need for multi-day trips at home, so I don't have to worry about grocery shopping before every trip.

Packing

One of my most important rules when touring over multiple days is to make sure that I have a designated place for all my gear. This is true for the car, the kayak and the campsite. If we stick to this rule consistently on each and every tour, it can make a very efficient and relaxed experience, at least as far as packing is concerned. A lot of energy can be wasted looking for one thing or another, and it can also be a very distracting from more important things (like weather, supplies, food, etc.). To keep everything in place, it has worked for me that every time I stand up and head off to any combination of car-kayak-camp, I always try to put something in its place - no empty runs. I'm sure to find something around me that I no longer need so I put it back in its place so the next time I need it, I can find it with closed eyes. An example: I keep empty plastic bag in one place in the car, in the left rear trunk pocket. Any other place where an empty bag turns up is a bug in the system. 😊

At night

Anyone visiting Croatia will know that wild camping is not allowed, but there are plenty of campsites to choose from, although most campsites are closed during the off-season. If it happens that I have to break my route for the night and sleep in a tent, I consider it important to follow three rules: 1. fire is not allowed 2. respect nature (no "footprint" behind me) 3. try to remain invisible (camp away from populated areas and only set up the tent for the hours of sleep - first thing to do when I wake up is to dismantle it).

A comment on solo kayaking:

I started kayaking with group organized tours and after I got my own kayak, I tried to attend more safety and technical training courses in the last years. From the beginning I was taught "no solo kayaking". As a beginner, I naturally took the advice, and for a long time I also considered kayaking alone extremely dangerous. Then, on inland waters, this rule slowly loosened - if I had always waited for someone else, I would have often stayed at home instead of kayaking. Then slowly I got used to the experience of kayaking alone. It's an active sport where you're as close to nature as possible and you get the chance to relax completely. Once I had that feeling, I no longer considered kayaking alone as a devilish idea... and later, not even at sea. I am, however, taking great care to reduce the risk of solo kayaking. I find that I can confidently perform self rescue exercises, I don't go out on rough water (when I would even go into with more experienced kayaking friends), I take several devices with me that can be used for emergency calls and I always have an onshore contact who I check in with my planned route from time to time. Besides, of course, I also enjoy kayaking in company... but paddling with friends is a different kind of fun. 😊

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